I'm currently sitting in my new hostel in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Sipping Darjeeling tea I bought in the Bangalore duty free shop and feeling the stark contrasts between India, where I spent the past 2 1\2 months, and what little Ive now seen of Thailand. It didn't take long to experience these differences, and to be happy about them.
I loved India, let me say that up front. I'm not sure there's any other country in the world that has so much diversity in language, culture, food, and general behavior. And I only saw mostly one side of it. I traveled from the northern most region the the southern most point, hitting as much as possible in between. In the north, the people are genuine and friendly, at home in extreme altitude and cold. While still remaining close to their aged traditions, they have adopted to the influx of tourism that began around the late 70s. Luckily, this area still remains a less common tourist destination, than say Rajasthan, including Delhi and the Taj Mahal. I found these areas some of the most frustrating times of my travels. I won't even talk about Varanasi. The locals in these areas are so used to rich foreign tourists that very white person is nothing more than a walking dollar sign. Obviously, there is a lot to be said here about the remnants of colonialism, and perhaps it's wrong of me to complain, or I should be more understanding, given all that has brought this situation to be as it is. With that in mind, all I write here are my own impressions, devoid of any larger analysis, though you certainly might be right to fault me for it.
As I said, you're a walking $. You'll hear this from just about anyone who's been there. Everyone who approaches you on the street wants to sell you something, or simply wants something for nothing. They will claim to be your friend, that they just like helping foreigners, etc. 99.9% of the time it's a lie. Which is sad, because this makes you distrustful of random people, and so you push everyone away, assuming they are all the same. You very well could miss something here. And you become jaded, or at least I did. I became hard, unfriendly (by US standards) in return. You could call it cultural adaptation, but I'd rather not adapt if that's what it requires.
On the other hand, moving further south, this became less and less the case. The people were similar to those in the north, more open to strangers, not as much seeking to advantage. Though you definitely still are a target of greedy tuk tuk drivers and shop owners. Here, many Indians are Catholic, a relic of Portuguese imperialism. There are cathedrals and churches everywhere, about as ornate as most Ive seen in Europe! Though what's neat is the way they've blended it with their own culture. In traditional Indian style, it's quite "over the top" (a subjective assessment, yes, but think Indian weddings). Think neon lights surrounding every picture of Jesus. Or a small statue of him hidden in a small ornate doorway behind the alter, revered and praised in the same way they worship Hindu gods. In other words, like everywhere else and every other period in history, they fit the new to the old, establishing their own unique form of practice.
I could say more here, but I'd rather focus on what's most salient to me right now, as a part of this transition in countries. I gotta ask one thing. What the hell is up with qeues in India? By which I mean, there is no such thing. It's all out chaos. Even to the point where it hurts everyone involved. For instance, when a train stops and some people have to get off so others can get on. But there, they try to pile on anyways, pushing you back as you try to get off, despite the fact that there's nowhere to go! Senseless.
Cue my transition to Thailand. Suddenly, everyone is super nice, in a way that feels more genuine. Even the people who want to sell you things don't impose on you, don't call out at you - at least in Chiang Mai. And I haven't heard a horn the enire time ive been here. That's a small miracle. I'll admit, it definitely is more touristy than any place over been so far. I haven't seen so many white people since Indiana. And though that can be nice sometimes, I have come to like being more off the beaten path.
Oh yeah, and I have started to eat meat again, which was perfectly timed. I was a vegie for 3 months, but lost 20lbs. Not something that's great for my health. So picking meat back up, and there's no better place to eat meat than Thailand! Helloooo stir fry, pad Thai, and god knows what these words mean but hey it's meat. The place seems super clean, though I'm not sure how much of that is just me coming from India. Either way, I trust the food.
So Ive got a couple days of wandering around exploring, then I'm taking a Thai massage class to learn a bit. I've always loved giving massages, and I think physical touch is something that's so important in interpersonal communication, a thing we lack in the US. I look forward to becoming more comfortable touching and being touched. And understanding the human body in new ways.
I loved India, let me say that up front. I'm not sure there's any other country in the world that has so much diversity in language, culture, food, and general behavior. And I only saw mostly one side of it. I traveled from the northern most region the the southern most point, hitting as much as possible in between. In the north, the people are genuine and friendly, at home in extreme altitude and cold. While still remaining close to their aged traditions, they have adopted to the influx of tourism that began around the late 70s. Luckily, this area still remains a less common tourist destination, than say Rajasthan, including Delhi and the Taj Mahal. I found these areas some of the most frustrating times of my travels. I won't even talk about Varanasi. The locals in these areas are so used to rich foreign tourists that very white person is nothing more than a walking dollar sign. Obviously, there is a lot to be said here about the remnants of colonialism, and perhaps it's wrong of me to complain, or I should be more understanding, given all that has brought this situation to be as it is. With that in mind, all I write here are my own impressions, devoid of any larger analysis, though you certainly might be right to fault me for it.
As I said, you're a walking $. You'll hear this from just about anyone who's been there. Everyone who approaches you on the street wants to sell you something, or simply wants something for nothing. They will claim to be your friend, that they just like helping foreigners, etc. 99.9% of the time it's a lie. Which is sad, because this makes you distrustful of random people, and so you push everyone away, assuming they are all the same. You very well could miss something here. And you become jaded, or at least I did. I became hard, unfriendly (by US standards) in return. You could call it cultural adaptation, but I'd rather not adapt if that's what it requires.
On the other hand, moving further south, this became less and less the case. The people were similar to those in the north, more open to strangers, not as much seeking to advantage. Though you definitely still are a target of greedy tuk tuk drivers and shop owners. Here, many Indians are Catholic, a relic of Portuguese imperialism. There are cathedrals and churches everywhere, about as ornate as most Ive seen in Europe! Though what's neat is the way they've blended it with their own culture. In traditional Indian style, it's quite "over the top" (a subjective assessment, yes, but think Indian weddings). Think neon lights surrounding every picture of Jesus. Or a small statue of him hidden in a small ornate doorway behind the alter, revered and praised in the same way they worship Hindu gods. In other words, like everywhere else and every other period in history, they fit the new to the old, establishing their own unique form of practice.
I could say more here, but I'd rather focus on what's most salient to me right now, as a part of this transition in countries. I gotta ask one thing. What the hell is up with qeues in India? By which I mean, there is no such thing. It's all out chaos. Even to the point where it hurts everyone involved. For instance, when a train stops and some people have to get off so others can get on. But there, they try to pile on anyways, pushing you back as you try to get off, despite the fact that there's nowhere to go! Senseless.
Cue my transition to Thailand. Suddenly, everyone is super nice, in a way that feels more genuine. Even the people who want to sell you things don't impose on you, don't call out at you - at least in Chiang Mai. And I haven't heard a horn the enire time ive been here. That's a small miracle. I'll admit, it definitely is more touristy than any place over been so far. I haven't seen so many white people since Indiana. And though that can be nice sometimes, I have come to like being more off the beaten path.
Oh yeah, and I have started to eat meat again, which was perfectly timed. I was a vegie for 3 months, but lost 20lbs. Not something that's great for my health. So picking meat back up, and there's no better place to eat meat than Thailand! Helloooo stir fry, pad Thai, and god knows what these words mean but hey it's meat. The place seems super clean, though I'm not sure how much of that is just me coming from India. Either way, I trust the food.
So Ive got a couple days of wandering around exploring, then I'm taking a Thai massage class to learn a bit. I've always loved giving massages, and I think physical touch is something that's so important in interpersonal communication, a thing we lack in the US. I look forward to becoming more comfortable touching and being touched. And understanding the human body in new ways.
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