Kathmandu - Deliciously busy

Quick! While the internet is working, make a post!

As expected, internet over here is not prevalent nor reliable. Which is honestly kind of nice, in that I don't feel the constant urge to check email and Facebook. On the other hand, I would love to be able to look up hostels and ticket prices, and post in this blog!

This is my fourth day in kathmandu and I am still reeling from jet lag. But waking up at 4am has been nice because I get to see the sun rise over the city while I read the Maharabata, a classic work of Indian literature, similar I'm cultural relevance to the West's Illiad and Odessey, though apparently much more important even in modernity. It is said that what is in this book is everywhere, and what is not in this book is nowhere. We'll see about that.

I'm staying at the edge of Thamel, a neighborhood that is known for being a bit touristy and chaotic. Though I've gotten used to it now, at first it was a bit overwhelming. As the tallest person in the city of kathmandu (only a very slight exaggeration) I stick out like a sore thumb. And therefore am the target of every taxi driver, store owner, beggar, and freelance guide. It was difficult at first to find a balance between typical american courtesy and traveler savvy. Now I've got it down.

No surprises, there's some cool shit here. For starters, how about a temple of monkeys, right outside the city? And these monkeys don't take your shit. Theyll scrap with you, with your mother, with stray dogs, and with rival monkey gangs (seriously, there are monkey gangs - word of advice, don't get in the middle when they're rumbling over turf). Walking down the main strip today, there were some just chillin on power lines, snacking and watching in amusement as we humans stomp around in the mud trying not to get eaten by those big metal beasts that run all over the place, seemingly without direction. Seriously, I would never drive here. Walking is crazy enough. Though I have yet to see a single accident...

So its monsoon season. Know what that means? Ever tried to dry your clothes in a sauna? Thats basically the feeling. I washed a few articles of clothing 3 days ago and they're still wet. You just have to get used to always being sweaty and a bit salty. For you surfers out there (looking at you, Ister) that may not be too abnormal. But even coming from southern Indiana and Seattle, this is a whole new ball game. One where everyone loses, particularly the people around me because fuck if I'm showering when Im just going to put on the same smelly clothes I took off before the shower! Its OK though, because everyone else is in the same boat.

In all seriousness though, its a cool experience and its kind of fun to be gross by US standards for a bit. But I will be happy when monsoon season is over in a few weeks.

One last thing, because there's so much to tell I could type on this annoyingly small tablet screen until...until about now, because texting essays is a pain in the ass.

Anyways, the food here. Holy. Shit. The. Food. I'm taking pictures to post later and make you all hate me because I'm living like a king on a grad student salary. Breakfast: Omelet chock full of veggies, cooked potatoes with red peppers, onions, other delicious things i dont recognize, a "pancake" (actually closer to a crepe), French toast, hot tea, and something called meseuli (sp?) Which is basically God's version of that lame morning bowl of oatmeal. Throw in yogurt, bananas, honey, milk, and god knows what else and you have a serious win. Oh yeah, and the kicker? Thats all $1.50. Every. Morning. Served on a thatched roof terrace overlooking the city. I'm too lazy to type out the lunches and dinners, but I promise you, they are equally amazimg and affordable. And i thought I would lose weight over here.

Diving right in

The theme of my travels involves experiencing "mindfulness" in a variety of ways. I've done a decent amount of meditation and yoga, and many of you know my area of PhD studies relates to this topic of mindfulness. However, I have a very limited perspective on such a profound concept, and I'd like to expand my knowledge by approaching it through new means.

In that vein, a few of the things I have planned during this trip are:  meditation retreats, extended yoga retreats, massage classes, and deep water solo rock climbing. Alright, so it may be a stretch to call that last one a "mindfulness" activity. But those of you who also struggle with heights and have done any outdoor rock climbing, you know how easy it is to "lose your mind" when you tense to a bracing breeze 50 feet up a rock wall where you're trusting your life to a few bolts somebody drilled into the rock who knows how long ago.

But I thought I'd start out with something basic, something that seems simple. Though by all accounts it will be incredibly challenging. Three days after touching down in Kathmandu, I'll be participating in a 10-day silent vipassana meditation retreat. I'm including a link here that has some information on it: https://courses.dhamma.org/en/student_apps/907448/pages/4/edit

Essentially, it's 10 days straight of no talking or communication of any sort (beyond one brief, daily meeting for questions), no technology, no reading, no writing, no physical activity beyond walking, and 11-12 hours of daily meditation. 11-12 hours?! Here is the daily schedule:

4:00 am		Morning wake-up bell
4:30-6:30 am		Meditate in the hall or in your room
6:30-8:00 am		Breakfast break
8:00-9:00 am		Group meditation in the hall
9:00-11:00 am		Meditate in the hall or in your room according to the teacher's instructions
11:00-12:00 noon		Lunch break
12noon-1:00 pm		Rest and interviews with the teacher
1:00-2:30 pm		Meditate in the hall or in your room
2:30-3:30 pm		Group meditation in the hall
3:30-5:00 pm		Meditate in the hall or in your own room according to the teacher's instructions
5:00-6:00 pm		Tea break
6:00-7:00 pm		Group meditation in the hall
7:00-8:15 pm		Teacher's Discourse in the hall
8:15-9:00 pm		Group meditation in the hall
9:00-9:30 pm		Question time in the hall
9:30 pm		Retire to your own room--Lights out

To put that in perspective, the most I've ever done in one sitting was 1 hour. From what I hear though, that is the case for most people who go. It'll be quite the crash course, but sometimes that's just what you need to jar you out of monotonous patterns of thought. Going cold turkey is a solution for drug addicts, sometimes the only way to really quit the habit. In this case, one habit I'm trying to quit is negative reactive patterns of thought. We all have them, but rarely pay attention to them. And even when we notice them, it's a rare occasion that we take the time to question their effects and take action to control them. This retreat will provide the opportunity to try that work.

It starts September 1st and ends September 10th. Hopefully I make it through and have something interesting to say.

Packed and Ready to Roll

It's incredible how much stuff you think you'll need for 8 months of traveling. Actually, I thought I was being super minimalistic, but then was surprised by how much stuff I actually packed! A good portion of it is medicines and health related goodies, just to be safe. I'll probably end up tossing some of it once I get there, when I realize what I really do and don't need.

I am proud of how little clothes I managed to pack, though. Here is a picture of the compression sack where all my clothes for the trip are contained!

Not only does this nifty bag keep my clothes compressed, taking up less space in my pack, but it also keeps them waterproof. Should be pretty handy during the month or so of monsoon weather I'll encounter when I first get to Nepal.

And here is my pack, fully ready to go.

Those shades are going to see a lot of sun, and those boots are going to get caked in some serious dirt.